It was a beautiful Sunday afternoon. The sun was hanging far above with merciless intensity, yet the cool breeze from the nearby Indian Ocean could do little to caress the body. But it never bothered the very cheerful inhabitants who are used to the tropical scene. They rather go about their business with enticing smiles that come from their heart. They are very peaceful people.
While at a bus stop close to my hotel, it was the smiles from people I met for the first time that also made me prefer the ‘ala dala’(mini bus) to the comfort of taxi.
I just wanted to see the town, its offerings, the people, and thought doing that on a taxi would be a perfect idea. But I goofed. “Taxi is expensive, join ‘ala dala’, save money, mix with us and hear our story”, Cletus Azange, a man I met for the first time, interjected while I asked him how much a taxi for a trip down town was.
My concern was security, but Azange verified what a hotel staff who served me earlier in the morning said. “Tanzania is the most peaceful of East Africa, while Dar is the habour of peace. Nobody steals here,” Azange said.
As Azange practically pushed me into the mini bus, I asked what he meant by Dar. “Dar is our funky way of calling Dar es Salaam, a combination of Arabic and Swahili words, which literally means “The harbour of peace. It is our beautiful and peaceful city. We will not let anybody run it down. Let’s go.” He said. I was surprised at myself- following a man I just met. Probably, the tourist in me was at work or I was overwhelmed by his sincerity, which I made no effort to prove.
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But while almost stepping into the bus, the curiosity of a writer overwhelmed me for good. I paused for a moment and asked: “But where are we going. I want to see the city’s major attractions; can I see them while on the bus?” “You will”, he answered, telling me that I was fortunate because he was off duty that Sunday.
Off we go and grab our seats in the mini bus. The scene in the bus reminded me of a typical Lagos ‘molue’ bus. Yes, the Toyota Coaster bus with many themed writings, images and paintings on it, was full with passengers with humane character.
Some benevolent passengers offered to pay the fares for others. There was no noise, no preaching and no hawking. I was marveled. I touched Azange who paid my fare- 3,200TSh (Shillings), about $2, and asked: Why do you guys behave as if you are in prison here? He laughed, saying: “No. people here are friendly. But you talk when there is need to do so. We also have good Christians and Moslems here, but they know when and where to pray, and that is fundamental to our peace”, he explained.
The bus conductor hardly called bus stops, he collects money before passengers alight at their bus stops, while the driver stopped at strategic bus stops and waited for approximately one minute for people to alight. There was no rush. I had a handful of sights while the bus cruised on, there are excellent craft markets, shops and restaurants, and the streets are full of colour and activities.
About eight bus stops from our starting point, Azange beckoned on me to alight with him. I did, trusting him. But I was becoming more relaxed because I heard some revelations from my stranger-friend within the 15-minutes drive. As we headed towards the large sandy shore of the Indian Ocean littered with grooving Tanzanians, he explained why tourists flock Tanzania in thousands. “We are 40 million people; 60 percent Christians and 40 percent Muslims. The two religions intermarry, and children from such marriages are free to choose from either of the religions without molestations from the parents. Even, our president is a Muslim. We have over 40 tribes with English and Swahili as the official languages, but all that is not important. What matters here is that we are Tanzanians first, and that is the basis of peace here”.
The further we walked along the shore the more he talked about his country in positive light. The sleek cars park on the road nearby, the phones and personal belongings of fun seekers left on the sandy shore while the owners frolic in the water without watching their back was a testimony to what Azange said. “What if someone steals that phone”, I said pointing to a blackberry just before us. “No, nobody will”. People here live according to their means. That phone belongs to a multinational worker or an embassy staff. If you steal it, nobody will buy when they know you cannot afford it. People ask questions here my Nigerian friend”, he said. I was shocked. “Can this happen at Oniru Beach in Lagos or Badagry Beach”, I asked rhetorically. A strong, yet quiet voice within me told me no.
But what marveled me was when he introduced me to couples and said they were Muslims. I asked: “How. But they are drinking Serengeti, the local beer in Dar es Salaam”. Azenge laughed, saying who made you a judge. Here we don’t judge people as long as you are moderate in whatever you do. The Christians also said no alcohol, but don’t they drink? He asked me.
“I now understand why you are very peaceful people”, I said. You don’t understand yet. He said. “We are contented with what we have. We have Serengeti Wildlife, Kilimanjaro Mountain, and even Masai people, but the world thinks they belong to Kenya because of their much publicity and our contentment”, he further revealed to me.
Regaining consciousness of where we were, he apologised. I should have told you that this long shore lane is named Barrack Obama Drive in honour of President Barrack Obama. He is our son too. Yes, his father is from Kenyan in East Africa and Tanzania is in East Africa too”, he said. “Over there is the wharf, the biggest and busiest in East Africa”, he continued.
The Barack Obama Drive featured a waterfront where colonial-era buildings jostled for space with sleek, modern high-rises. From the Drive, massive ocean liners chugging into the harbour are obvious while peacocks strolling across the manicured State House grounds are commonplace.
According to him, the shore lane stretched over 100 kilometers and government reserved it for hotels, beaches and public spaces. At that point, I remembered how devalued Ozumba Mbadiwe Street that bordered the Lagos Lagoon was. It was recently that a few hotels started springing up there. I wondered what a bank headquarters or an oil company head office should be doing along the Lagoon shore when top hotel brands are looking for such prime locations to establish their outlets in Nigeria.
Before leaving the beach, he gathered some people who were glad to take pictures with his Nigerian friend. But to my greatest surprise, none of them resented or declined his offer despite the misguided information on Ebola Virus in Nigeria. It was fun posing in Dar es Salaam style- a very funky way with everybody pointing towards the Indian Ocean.
It was while on our way to the market to buy ‘Khanga’ local textile I wanted as souvenir that I asked Azange his stand on Ebola. “I know you don’t have it. We were told the measures at the airport are good enough to stop the virus from coming into our country; besides, you are staying in one of the best hotels in Dar es Salaam. The hotel must have screened you before giving you room”, he enthused.
Despite high-rises springing up across the city, there are still many colonial styled buildings reminding the city of its past. Traffic also built up on major roads, but it eased off easily due to the city’s law abiding citizens. I appreciated their love for their city and country.
Dar also features other places of interest, especially the Mlimani City, an ultramodern shopping complex and office centre for the city’s growing population. Of course, world-class hotels dot the shores of the Indian Ocean in Dar es Salaam. From Kunduchi Beach Hotel and Resort, Habour View, Serena Hotel (once Sheraton), Hyatt, Holiday Inn, JB Belmont, Hotel Sapphize to world class restaurants, Dar es Salaam caters for its growing visitors.
However, eating out in the city is best done at Akemi Restaurant. This revolving restaurant on the 23rd floor of the Golden Tower on Ohio Street is one place in the whole of Dar that offers visitors a view of the city while relishing the best of continental dishes and Tanzania cuisines with root in Arabic and Swahili cultures.
Yet, there are pockets of islands on the ocean that needs to be explored, while sport fishing is commonplace for those who cherish it.
As well, there are some must-see museums, especially The Village Museum, an open-air museum featuring a collection of authentically constructed dwellings illustrating traditional life in various parts of Tanzania. Visitors are entertained with traditional music and dance performances on afternoons.
I truly discovered the peace in Dar. But one promise I would be struggling to fulfill is to return visit, as Azange look forward to my visit sooner or later. Until then!
OBINNA EMELIKE
