In an ever-busy tailor’s shop in Lagos, a young man leans over a neatly folded stack of fabric. His eyes scan the patterns and textures until they settle on a fabric known locally as Senator.
The material has become synonymous with elegance and prestige, a staple in the wardrobes of Nigerian men who aspire to make an impression. As he hands it to the tailor with instructions for a well-fitted agbada, he might not know—or perhaps doesn’t dwell on the fact—that the fabric’s journey began thousands of miles away in the mills of China or Turkey.
The Senator fabric, with its subtle sheen and woven complexity, symbolises a peculiar irony: a country that was once a textile powerhouse now depends almost entirely on imports for a material so deeply entwined with its cultural identity. The very essence of Nigeria’s Senator look is imported, even though the country boasts vast cotton fields, a vibrant tailoring industry, and a rich textile history.
This disconnect is more than an economic dilemma; it is a missed opportunity for job creation, local enterprise, and national pride. Nigeria’s yarn-making industry—once the backbone of its thriving textile sector—now operates at a fraction of its potential. The story of Senator fabric, and the industry that should support it, is a microcosm of the larger challenge facing Nigeria’s textile sector and its immense, untapped opportunities.
The State of Nigeria’s Yarn Industry
Once a thriving contributor to Nigeria’s economy, the yarn and textile industry has been on a downward spiral for decades.
According to the National Bureau of Statistics (NBS), the textile sector contributed over 25 per cent of Nigeria’s manufacturing output in the 1980s and employed over 350,000 people. Today, that number has dropped to less than 2 per cent, with fewer than 25,000 employed across the entire industry.
Key challenges facing the industry include:
High Production Costs: Electricity, which makes up nearly half of production costs, remains unaffordable and unreliable for many manufacturers.
Decline in Cotton Farming: Once a global leader in cotton production, Nigeria now struggles with poor yields due to outdated farming practices, lack of irrigation, and inadequate support for farmers.
Policy and Infrastructure Gaps: Government interventions, like the Cotton, Textile, and Garment (CTG) fund, have had limited impact due to mismanagement, corruption, and insufficient monitoring.
Dependence on Imports: The high cost of production has made imported yarn and fabrics far cheaper than local alternatives, discouraging domestic investment.
How Other Countries Built Thriving Yarn Industries
China: Building a Textile Powerhouse
Integrated Supply Chain: China ensured seamless integration from cotton farming to finished textiles, supported by investments in modern machinery and efficient logistics.
Government Incentives: Subsidies, low-interest loans, and tax benefits allowed the textile sector to scale rapidly.
Massive Scale: Economies of scale reduced costs, making Chinese yarn the most competitive globally.
India: Leveraging Cotton and Tradition
Focus on Agriculture: Programmes like the Technology Mission on Cotton introduced high-yield seeds and modern farming methods, significantly boosting output.
Regional Hubs: Textile clusters in Gujarat and Tamil Nadu linked farmers, yarn producers, and garment manufacturers.
Global Markets: India’s yarn industry captured international markets by combining affordability with quality.
Turkey: Balancing Tradition and Technology
Quality Focus: Turkish yarn is synonymous with high quality due to advanced spinning technologies.
Domestic Demand: A strong culture of local fabric use supported consistent demand.
Trade Agreements: Access to European markets through favourable trade deals boosted growth.
Priorities to Revive Nigeria’s Yarn Industry
Revitalise Cotton Production
Invest in high-yield cotton seeds and modern farming techniques.
Improve rural infrastructure for ginning, storage, and transport.
Establish cooperatives to empower smallholder farmers.
Modernise Production Facilities
Provide tax incentives for textile firms to acquire advanced spinning machinery.
Encourage partnerships with global machinery manufacturers for local production.
Reduce Energy Costs
Expand renewable energy initiatives, particularly solar, to lower manufacturing costs.
Implement subsidies for textile industries to access reliable power.
Strengthen Policy and Financing
Revise the CTG fund to ensure transparency and measurable outcomes.
Provide grants and affordable loans to incentivize local investment.
Promote Local Fabrics
Launch nationwide campaigns to boost consumer preference for Nigerian-made textiles.
Mandate the use of local fabrics for uniforms in government agencies and schools.
The Lessons of Success
The success of China, India, and Turkey underscores key principles Nigeria must adopt: long-term strategic investments, efficient policies, and leveraging local demand. Beyond industrial policy, a cultural shift is necessary to instill pride in locally made goods, encouraging Nigerians to champion their own products.
Weaving a New Story
The Senator fabric phenomenon represents more than a fashion trend; it’s a call to action. Nigeria’s yarn-making industry holds the potential to be a linchpin for economic transformation, from job creation to boosting gross domestic product (GDP). With strategic investments and lessons drawn from global success stories, Nigeria can reclaim its position as a leader in textile production, producing fabrics that not only meet local demand but also compete internationally.
Now is the time for Nigeria to thread the needle between opportunity and action—transforming its textile sector from a shadow of its past into a beacon of its future.
